The Modder's Workbench: DIY & Customization

For the enthusiast, stock performance is merely a baseline. Modification allows for weight reduction, specific mechanical tuning, and aesthetic restoration. This guide provides detailed technical protocols for the most common and effective modifications.

⚖️ Weight Reduction: The G305 Paradigm

The Logitech G305 is the archetype for weight reduction due to its AA battery dependency.

The Battery Chemistry Mod (Mass & Balance)

A standard Alkaline AA battery weighs ~23g, creating a significant rear-bias in the mouse's center of gravity.

Lithium AAA Substitution: A Lithium AAA battery weighs only ~7.6g. By using a small ball of aluminum foil to bridge the gap between the AAA battery and the positive terminal, users reduce the total weight by approximately 15g.
Physics of Balance: This modification not only reduces inertia but shifts the Center of Mass (CoM) forward, closer to the sensor line, improving the rotational stability of the mouse during micro-adjustments.

Chassis Modification (3D Printing)

For sub-65g targets, the stock battery cover (7g) can be replaced with 3D-printed hex-pattern alternatives (~3g).

Resources: Files for 'Hex' or 'Honeycomb' battery covers are widely available on repositories like Thingiverse and Printables. Printing in PLA is standard, but ABS or PETG offers better durability/weight ratios.
External Resource: The YouTuber Beardedbob maintains a comprehensive spreadsheet of mouse component weights and 3D print guides for advanced shell replacements.

🔥 Switch Replacement & Hotswap Engineering

Replacing switches solves the 'double-click' issue and allows users to customize actuation force and tactile feedback.

The Soldering Protocol

Replacing a switch requires desoldering the three pins connecting it to the PCB.

Required Tools: Soldering iron (adjustable temp), 60/40 leaded solder (easier flow), flux pen, and a solder sucker (pump) or copper wick.
Temperature: Set iron to 300°C - 350°C. Excessive heat (>380°C) or prolonged contact (>3 seconds) poses a high risk of delaminating the copper pads from the PCB, which is often irreparable.
Technique: Add fresh solder to the joint first (to improve thermal transfer), then heat and use the sucker to remove the molten solder. The switch should drop out without force.

The Mill-Max Hotswap Mod

To avoid soldering in the future, enthusiasts install <strong>Mill-Max 0305 or 7305</strong> sockets into the PCB holes.

Mechanism: These hollow, gold-plated receptacles are soldered into the PCB holes. Switches can then be pushed in and pulled out without tools.
Technical Note: The 7305 sockets are shorter (flusher fit) but harder to solder than the longer 0305s. This mod typically requires widening the PCB holes with a micro-file, as Mill-Max sockets are slightly wider than standard switch pins.
External Resource: Ents on YouTube provides definitive visual guides for the Mill-Max installation process.

Switch Recommendations (2026 Meta)

Huano Blue Shell Pink Dot (BSPD): The current enthusiast standard. Heavy, crisp tactile bump, highly resistant to double-clicking.
TTC Gold 80M: Dust-proof, snappy, and durable.
Kailh GM 8.0: Previously king, now avoided due to recent batches suffering from 'slam-clicking' and early double-click failure.

⚙️ Rotary Encoder Maintenance & Tuning

If the scroll wheel jumps up when scrolling down, the encoder is oxidized.

Diagnostics & Repair

The Fix: Disassemble the mouse to expose the encoder (the square metal component the wheel axle sits in). Inject a drop of DeoxIT D5 (contact cleaner) into the mechanism and scroll vigorously. This chemically dissolves the oxidation on the internal contact wipers.
Lubrication: If the wheel feels 'gritty' but tracks correctly, apply DeoxIT F5 (FaderLube) or a tiny amount of Krytox 205g0 to the mechanical axle, not the electrical contacts.

Encoder Varieties

ALPS (Japan): The gold standard for tactile 'steps.' High definition, heavy scroll feel.
TTC Gold: The most common high-performance encoder. Balanced tactility and smoothness.
Kailh Red/Grey: Often smoother/looser, less tactile definition.

🎨 Surface Engineering: Grip & Coatings

Paint & Durability (The 2K Standard)

Painting a mouse requires automotive-grade durability to resist hand oils (acids).

Preparation: Sanding with 400 -> 800 grit to key the surface.
The Critical Step: Standard clear coats (1K) will turn sticky and dissolve under sweat. You must use a 2K (2-component) Clear Coat (e.g., SprayMax 2K). This includes a hardener catalyst that cures into a chemical-resistant shell.

Restoring Matte Finishes

Glossy ABS plastic can be returned to a matte finish using the 'Scotch-Brite' method or high-grit sandpaper.

Grit Progression: Wet sand gently with 1500 -> 2000 -> 3000 grit paper to remove the shine without leaving visible deep scratches.

📚 Recommended Resources for Modders

Beardedbob (YouTube): Weight reduction, teardowns, and latency testing.
Ents (YouTube): Soldering, hotswap mods, and switch repairs.
r/MouseReview & r/MouseModding: The central hubs for community-verified modding advice and file sharing.